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Gazpacho

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Posts posted by Gazpacho

  1. On 9/19/2017 at 7:58 PM, Oysterhead00 said:

     

    I'm relatively new to photography too and never took a class or anything.  If you're shooting with fast glass, put it on Av or A (Aperture mode) and set your f stop the (ummmm, I always get confused with saying larger and smaller) lowest number you can.  Like if you have an f/1.8 - f/12 lens, go with f/1.8.  Shoot on RAW+JPEG mode.  You can be like me and take pictures that look horrible and washed out and then easily correct it in RAW format :)  If you are using a zoom lens...don't use the zoom.  Shoot at the widest setting you can and use your feet to get you closer or further from the subject.  When you zoom in, the camera usually allows in less light often forcing a change in your settings. 

     

    Shooting on Aperture priority mode means that your camera will pick the best shutter speed for the light conditions based on you choosing the aperture.  This will let you get the most crisp photos with as little blur as possible without you having to continually play with the shutter speed to compensate for fog and other movements.  It has an effect on Depth of Field...but I'm not smart enough to know how to explain it.

     

    Another option is to get something like a gorillapod that is small and light and use it to mount your camera on top of a garbage can / smoke machine / whatever and take a long exposure where people walking around will just be a blur/light trail and you'll get a good shot of the zone with dynamic lighting.  You can get the DSLR+Zoom one for like $50 on Amazon and it comes with a rotating ball head.  You can use it to mount your camera to any railing as well...however...they aren't PERFECT and if you don't mount it properly and are using a heavy lens, it could fall.   https://www.amazon.com/GorillaPod-Flexible-Ballhead-Mirrorless-Cameras/dp/B002FGTWOC/

     

    The best bet is to get a 50mm or 35mm (this would be my personal choice as I got a 50mm and feel like it's zoomed in a bit too much for me...and 35mm is approximately what the human eye sees) prime lens.  That means you can't zoom at all and you can get a f/1.8 for like $200 and a f/1.4 for a bit more.  I have a Nikon so not sure about Canon prices.  The lack of motors and mirrors for zoom and stuff make the lenses a better quality for the most part.  You sacrifice flexibility, but get cleaner shots as the lens is so much simpler.

     

    Adjusting your ISO to 1600, 3200 or even 6400 can help a great deal as well, but the higher you set it to more digital noise you get...it's a fine line you have to figure out based on your camera and your tolerance for the artifacts that it adds...but for night photography it can make a HUGE difference.

     

    That's an idiot's guide to taking pictures at the event....an idiot's guide because it was written by an idiot :)

     

    Some not quite so idiotic advice:
    https://photographylife.com/low-light-digital-photography-tips
    https://expertphotography.com/capture-great-photos-low-light/

     

    Thanks for taking the time to give me a detailed response. I already have the gorillapod, so thats a start ! I will certainly tale along those settings when I come over from the UK and with four nights at the event with express and an RIP tour, I should have some spare time take things slow and photograph those scare zones

  2. I am relatively new to DSLR photography and I really struggled with my Canon 70D camera settings last year with varying lighting conditions, smoke and subject movement. Obviously a tripod and flash are not options and the settings I had prepared just didnt do the job.

     

    I get another stab at it this year with four nights at HHN and would appreciate any advice on a good starting point for settings once the sun has gone down and all those lights are flashing

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